Rabbit Housing and Space
There are many types of cages and hutches for your rabbit. Fist of all you need to decide whether you want an indoor rabbit or outdoor rabbit. Think of the climate you live in and what is best for the rabbit. Also think of how much time you want to put into cleaning cages and, if you are looking at indoor rabbits, how much do you want to rabbit proof your home. Believe it or not rabbits can stink a lot!
Rabbits can handle colder weather better then hot. They also should be kept dry, so if you live in a extremely wet area I would recommend hutches or some sort of barn. But if you have a large herd or a rabbitry and you live in damp conditions then wire cages in a shed or a good overhang would work. Rabbits can become ill from being extremely wet so best to keep them dry.
Plastic Bottom Cages are alright, however if they are not cleaned on a regular basis they can be extremely unsanitary. The plastic bottom can cause discomfort to a rabbit if their nails are long. They are a good choice for house rabbits though. The reason is because the plastic bottom is usually around 4+ inches tall making it harder for the rabbit to get the surrounding area in the house dirty.
Hutches are really nice, the wood keeps the hutch warmer when it is cold outside and colder when it is warm outside. Sadly they tend to be on the expensive side, even if you have the knowledge to make your own. You can either have a wooden or wire bottom. I like my hutches to have both, that way the rabbit can rest on the solid bottom and it’s wast falls out of the cage so the rabbit isn’t always sitting in it’s own dung and urine. But be careful, sometimes rabbits chose to go potty on the opposite place that you want them to. It is fairly easy to potty train them though.
*You can make your own or buy one online or from a local feed store.
Wire Cages are nice, especially if you have lots of rabbits and don’t want to spend tons of money on hutches. They are fairly simple to ensemble on your own and they make for an easier clean up. Though you might want to buy a few EZ mats (sell for around three dollars.) the reason for this is because the wire can give rabbits sore hocks from sitting on the wire too long if they are heavy rabbits or have thin paddin on their hocks. Some people also buy carpet squares in the cages. Other then that, they are the most sanitary and inexpensive choice.
*Make your own or buy them online, sometimes at feed stores.
You can always give bucks a smaller cage (not too small) compared to a does’ cage.
For your rabbit cage the ideal wire for most breeds is:
Top and sides 1″x 2″ 16 gage wire.
The bottom use 1/2″x 1″ 14 gage wire.
The bare minimum space for rabbits is shown in the charts below. Of course if you can get larger cages, it might make it easyer for you and the rabbits. Just make sure not to make them too deep, so you can still reach your rabbits.
Take your (length X width = total Sq. Inches)
Rabbit Size in LBS / Space Requirement in Sq. inches.
3-5 lbs / 360 sq. in (that is a 20″x18″cage)
6-8 lbs / 576 sq. in (that is a 24″x24″cage)
9-11 lbs / 720 sq. in (that is a 30″x24″cage)
12-15 lbs / 900 sq. in (that is a 30″x30″cage)
Now for the Nursing Does you will need a larger space
Rabbit Size in LBS / Space Requirement in Sq. inches
3-5 lbs / 576 sq. in (that is a 24″x24″cage)
6-8 lbs / 720 sq.in (that is a 30″x24″cage)
9-11 lbs / 900 sq. in (that is a 30″x30″cage)
12-15 lbs / 1080 sq. in (that is a 36″x30″cage)
I say the more space the better. That is not always the case for some rabbits but for mine it is. I also know that they have enough space to be happy. Some rabbits may stress over too much space, this isn't common, but it is possible. Larger spaces may also enable a rabbit to develop good muscle, yet it could also equal no weight gain. Figure out what works best for you and your rabbit.
Sanitation and ventilation are two of the most important things for a healthy rabbitry environment with healthy rabbits.
You should have a cleaning schedule set up so that you can be consistent in cleaning. I suggest a weekly cleaning schedule because in one week most rabbits have dirty or almost dirty cages. It is best to clean a cage before it is dirty. I use metal wire brushes to clean fur off of the wire floor. Some people use a special torch to burn off the fur, however the flooring would start to wear down. Shovels work great for shoveling manure if you have a drop-thru to ground system. For sanitizing everything, I use a 10% bleach solution. This will kill a lot of bacteria. After this solution is spread on the cage, wait for it to dry or spray it off. I also suggest doing a 10% ammonia solution. Always wait for the cage to dry before a rabbit is placed in it.
Ventilation is important for disease control. Hot air rises so have a space at the top of the cage open and also the bottom. All wire cages provide great air circulation because air can move through easily.
With proper ventilation and sanitation you decrease chances of respiratory issues in your rabbits.